# Multi-site assessment of microtidal wave-dominated active beach state and morpho-sedimentary parameters using optical satellite imagery

**Authors:** Salomé Frugier, Rafael Almar, Erwin W. J. Bergsma, Marcan Graffin, Gerben Ruessink

PMC · DOI: 10.1038/s41598-026-45638-3 · Scientific Reports · 2026-03-27

## TL;DR

This paper introduces a new satellite-based method to assess beach states and their morphological properties across many locations, enabling large-scale coastal monitoring.

## Contribution

A novel remotely observable metric, X_b, is introduced for classifying beach states and linking them to sediment and morphology parameters using satellite imagery.

## Key findings

- The metric X_b successfully classifies beach states into five active states with transferable thresholds.
- X_b reveals temporal beach state evolution, including occurrence, residence time, and transitions with seasonal patterns.
- X_b correlates with beach-face slope and sediment grain size, enabling satellite-based coastal monitoring at large scales.

## Abstract

Traditionally, beach states are defined from visual observations, in-situ measurements and/or video imagery, which limits their application to a handful of well-instrumented sites. In this work, we propose a different approach by focusing on a remotely observable quantity: the cross-shore distance between the offshore wave-breaking and the shoreline position, denoted \documentclass[12pt]{minimal}
				\usepackage{amsmath}
				\usepackage{wasysym} 
				\usepackage{amsfonts} 
				\usepackage{amssymb} 
				\usepackage{amsbsy}
				\usepackage{mathrsfs}
				\usepackage{upgreek}
				\setlength{\oddsidemargin}{-69pt}
				\begin{document}$$X_b$$\end{document}. This metric defines the active beach state, capturing where waves dissipate energy relative to the underlying morphology. Using 10 years of Sentinel-2 imagery, \documentclass[12pt]{minimal}
				\usepackage{amsmath}
				\usepackage{wasysym} 
				\usepackage{amsfonts} 
				\usepackage{amssymb} 
				\usepackage{amsbsy}
				\usepackage{mathrsfs}
				\usepackage{upgreek}
				\setlength{\oddsidemargin}{-69pt}
				\begin{document}$$X_b$$\end{document} is evaluated across 30 wave-dominated microtidal sandy beaches spanning reflective to fully dissipative conditions. The metric reproduces the structure of classical beach state frameworks and enables classification into five active states (R, LTT, TBR/RBB, LBT, and D) using transferable thresholds. \documentclass[12pt]{minimal}
				\usepackage{amsmath}
				\usepackage{wasysym} 
				\usepackage{amsfonts} 
				\usepackage{amssymb} 
				\usepackage{amsbsy}
				\usepackage{mathrsfs}
				\usepackage{upgreek}
				\setlength{\oddsidemargin}{-69pt}
				\begin{document}$$X_b$$\end{document} is continuous, thus it also reveals how beach state evolve through time, allowing quantification of state occurrence, residence time, and transitions, with seasonal variability consistent with independent classifications at well-studied sites. Furthermore, using empirical relationships, we demonstrate that \documentclass[12pt]{minimal}
				\usepackage{amsmath}
				\usepackage{wasysym} 
				\usepackage{amsfonts} 
				\usepackage{amssymb} 
				\usepackage{amsbsy}
				\usepackage{mathrsfs}
				\usepackage{upgreek}
				\setlength{\oddsidemargin}{-69pt}
				\begin{document}$$X_b$$\end{document} carries first-order information about beach-face slope (\documentclass[12pt]{minimal}
				\usepackage{amsmath}
				\usepackage{wasysym} 
				\usepackage{amsfonts} 
				\usepackage{amssymb} 
				\usepackage{amsbsy}
				\usepackage{mathrsfs}
				\usepackage{upgreek}
				\setlength{\oddsidemargin}{-69pt}
				\begin{document}$$\tan \beta$$\end{document}) and sediment grain size (\documentclass[12pt]{minimal}
				\usepackage{amsmath}
				\usepackage{wasysym} 
				\usepackage{amsfonts} 
				\usepackage{amssymb} 
				\usepackage{amsbsy}
				\usepackage{mathrsfs}
				\usepackage{upgreek}
				\setlength{\oddsidemargin}{-69pt}
				\begin{document}$$D_{50}$$\end{document}), opening a pathway toward systematic satellite-based monitoring of coastal morphodynamics at regional to global scales.

## Full-text entities

- **Genes:** COL9A3 (collagen type IX alpha 3 chain) [NCBI Gene 1299] {aka DJ885L7.4.1, EDM3, IDD, MED, STL6}
- **Chemicals:** Sentinel-2 (-), D (MESH:D003903)
- **Mutations:** (R) to 8, (R) to 1, D between 140-170, rs14030453, start in 2018

## Full text

_Full body text omitted from this summary view._ Fetch the complete paper as Markdown: https://tomesphere.com/paper/PMC13039959/full.md

## Figures

7 figures with captions in the complete paper: https://tomesphere.com/paper/PMC13039959/full.md

## References

16 references — full list in the complete paper: https://tomesphere.com/paper/PMC13039959/full.md

---
Source: https://tomesphere.com/paper/PMC13039959