# Effects of Acute and Moderate Caffeine Doses on Sport Climbing Performance: A Randomized Controlled Trial

## TL;DR

This study found that a moderate caffeine dose did not improve climbing performance in athletes, despite making them feel more alert and energetic.

## Contribution

The study is the first to investigate caffeine's effects on sport climbing performance using grip and pull-up tests.

## Key findings

- Caffeine did not significantly improve climbing-related performance metrics like grip strength or endurance.
- Participants felt more energetic and alert with caffeine, but this did not translate into measurable performance gains.
- Higher caffeine doses or climbing-specific tests may be needed to detect ergogenic effects.

## Abstract

Background/Objectives: Caffeine is a well-established ergogenic aid in many strength- and endurance-based sports, but its efficacy in sport climbing remains underexplored despite the sport’s unique physical demands on grip strength, power, and muscular endurance. Therefore, this study examined the acute impact of a low caffeine dose (3 mg/kg) on climbing-specific performance, including pull-up and grip tests, in intermediate-advanced climbers. Methods: In a triple-blind, randomized, crossover design, thirteen male climbers (age: 28.2 ± 8.6 years) completed two experimental trials (caffeine vs. placebo). Performance was assessed via a pull-up one-repetition maximum (1RM) and power test at various loads, a pull-up muscular endurance test, and grip tests including maximum dead-hang time, maximum dead-hang strength, and rate of force development (RFD). Results: Caffeine did not significantly enhance performance in any measured variable. While a non-significant increase in peak power was observed at 80% 1RM (+8.0%, 95% CI: −0.232 to 0.304, p > 0.05, g = 0.348), effects at other loads and on pull-up endurance were trivial based on effect size (e.g., repetitions: +3.3%, 95% CI: −3.30 to 4.37, p = 0.292, g = 0.061). For grip metrics, caffeine was associated with a modest reduction in endurance time (+7.4%, p = 0.162, g = 0.171) and a slight increase in maximum strength (+2.4%, p = 0.060, g = 0.120). RFD was unaffected (p > 0.169, g < 0.13). Despite the lack of objective improvement, participants reported significantly greater subjective feelings of strength, energy, and alertness with caffeine (p < 0.05). Conclusions: A 3 mg/kg dose of caffeine, while altering psycho-physiological state, did not elicit statistically or practically meaningful ergogenic effects on pull-up or grip performance in climbers. Higher doses or sport-specific performance tests should be investigated in future research.