# Dermofunctional Vehicle Downregulates LL-37 and MMPs and Upregulates IGFBP-3

**Authors:** Hudson Polonini, Fabiana Regina da Silva Olímpio, Carlos Rocha Oliveira

PMC · DOI: 10.3390/cimb48010054 · 2025-12-31

## TL;DR

A skincare base called Cleoderm™ reduces inflammation and protects skin structure by modulating specific biomarkers linked to acne and rosacea.

## Contribution

Cleoderm™ is shown to modulate LL-37 and IGFBP-3, offering a novel dermofunctional vehicle with anti-inflammatory and matrix-protective effects.

## Key findings

- Cleoderm™ reduced pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and TNF-α in a skin co-culture model.
- Cleoderm™ upregulated IGFBP-3 and downregulated LL-37, suggesting modulation of pathways relevant to acne and rosacea.
- The formulation preserved extracellular matrix integrity by reducing MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-13.

## Abstract

Background: Functional dermatological bases can contribute more than just delivery—they may actively modulate cutaneous homeostasis. Cleoderm™ is a dermofunctional base containing a patented Cleome gynandra extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, bisabolol, hyaluronic acid, and functional oils, rationally designed to provide anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and barrier-supportive properties. Objective: To determine whether Cleoderm™ exhibits intrinsic immunomodulatory and matrix-protective effects in a physiologically relevant skin co-culture and to clarify the biomarkers most impacted, with translational relevance to acne and rosacea. Methods: Human keratinocytes and fibroblasts were maintained in a transwell co-culture. Non-cytotoxic concentrations of Cleoderm™ (1.0% and 10.0%, v/v) were tested with or without LPS stimulation (1 μg/mL). Viability was assessed by MTT and Trypan Blue. Cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α, IL-10, TGF-β) and MMPs (MMP-1, -3, -13) were quantified by ELISA and RT-qPCR. LL-37, IGFBP-3, and TGF-β protein levels were evaluated by Western blot. Results: Cleoderm™ showed no cytotoxicity up to 10% (v/v). It significantly reduced pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-6, TNF-α) and matrix-degrading enzymes (MMP-1, MMP-3, MMP-13) while increasing anti-inflammatory/reparative cytokines (IL-10, TGF-β). A dual, biomarker-level modulation was observed: (i) LL-37 was reduced, with a particularly pronounced decrease in secreted levels; and (ii) IGFBP-3 was markedly upregulated, indicating potential attenuation of the IGF-1 axis relevant to sebaceous lipogenesis. Collectively, these effects indicate immunoregulatory and matrix-protective activity consistent with improved cutaneous homeostasis. Conclusion: In a dermo-epidermally relevant in vitro model, Cleoderm™ functions as an active dermofunctional base, not merely a vehicle simultaneously tempering inflammatory signaling, preserving extracellular matrix integrity, and modulating mechanistic nodes (LL-37 and IGFBP-3) linked to rosacea and acne. These findings is consistent with the use of Cleoderm™ as a biologically supportive base for personalized compounding and justify controlled clinical evaluation.

## Linked entities

- **Proteins:** CAMP (cathelicidin antimicrobial peptide), MMP1 (matrix metallopeptidase 1), MMP3 (matrix metallopeptidase 3), MMP13 (matrix metallopeptidase 13), IGFBP3 (insulin like growth factor binding protein 3), IL6 (interleukin 6), TNF (tumor necrosis factor), IL10 (interleukin 10), TGFB1 (transforming growth factor beta 1)
- **Chemicals:** palmitoyl tripeptide-8 (PubChem CID 11498521), bisabolol (PubChem CID 442343)
- **Diseases:** acne (MONDO:0011438), rosacea (MONDO:0006604)
- **Species:** Homo sapiens (taxon 9606)

## Full-text entities

- **Genes:** IGFBP3 (insulin like growth factor binding protein 3) [NCBI Gene 3486] {aka BP-53, IBP-3, IBP3, IGFBP-3}, IL10 (interleukin 10) [NCBI Gene 3586] {aka CSIF, GVHDS, IL-10, IL10A, TGIF}, IL6 (interleukin 6) [NCBI Gene 3569] {aka BSF-2, BSF2, CDF, HGF, HSF, IFN-beta-2}, MMP1 (matrix metallopeptidase 1) [NCBI Gene 4312] {aka CLG}, MMP13 (matrix metallopeptidase 13) [NCBI Gene 4322] {aka CLG3, MANDP1, MDST, MMP-13}, TGFB1 (transforming growth factor beta 1) [NCBI Gene 7040] {aka CAEND1, CED, DPD1, IBDIMDE, LAP, TGF-beta1}, CAMP (cathelicidin antimicrobial peptide) [NCBI Gene 820] {aka CAP-18, CAP18, CRAMP, FALL-39, FALL39, HSD26}, IGF1 (insulin like growth factor 1) [NCBI Gene 3479] {aka IGF, IGF-I, IGFI, MGF}, TNF (tumor necrosis factor) [NCBI Gene 7124] {aka DIF, IMD127, TNF-alpha, TNFA, TNFSF2, TNLG1F}, MMP3 (matrix metallopeptidase 3) [NCBI Gene 4314] {aka CHDS6, MMP-3, SL-1, STMY, STMY1, STR1}
- **Diseases:** acne (MESH:D000152), cytotoxicity (MESH:D064420), rosacea (MESH:D012393), inflammatory (MESH:D007249)
- **Chemicals:** Cleoderm (-), bisabolol (MESH:C004497), MTT (MESH:C070243), hyaluronic acid (MESH:D006820), Trypan Blue (MESH:D014343), LPS (MESH:D008070)
- **Species:** Homo sapiens (human, species) [taxon 9606]

## Figures

5 figures with captions in the complete paper: https://tomesphere.com/paper/PMC12840455/full.md

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Source: https://tomesphere.com/paper/PMC12840455