# Development of Efficient Supramolecular Photostabilizer for Carotenoids and Retinoids: Analyses and Application Research

## TL;DR

Researchers developed a new water-soluble photostabilizer that effectively protects carotenoids and retinoids from light-induced degradation in cosmetics.

## Contribution

A novel aqueous-phase supramolecular photostabilizer, crocin–Na2GA, was developed for commercial cosmetic use.

## Key findings

- Crocin–Na2GA significantly reduced the photodegradation of astaxanthin, β-carotene, and retinol in various formulations.
- The photoprotective mechanism involves crocin scavenging radicals through a self-sacrificial process in a micellar system.
- The stabilizer showed potential for safe and cost-effective use in cosmetic products.

## Abstract

Carotenoids and retinol are well known for their potent antioxidant and biological properties in pharmaceuticals, foods, and cosmetics. However, their poor photostability presents a significant challenge that cannot be effectively addressed through simple formulation strategies such as encapsulation. Although photostabilizers are commonly employed to enhance product photostability, there remains a lack of highly water‐soluble and legitimate stabilizers suitable for commercial cosmetic applications.

To develop a novel aqueous‐phase photostabilizer simultaneously boosting carotenoid and retinol shelf‐life in cosmetics and meeting global safety standards. Underlying mechanism and application are investigated.

Micellar supramolecular complex crocin–Na2GA was prepared by mechanochemistry; thermal stability, storage stability, and photo‐oxidative degradation were tested. Then, photoprotection of carotenoids and retinoids by crocin–Na2GA in aqua solution, cream‐based formulations, and on an artificial skin model was tested. Finally, cyclic voltammetry was applied for mechanism research.

Experiments demonstrated that the light‐induced degradation of astaxanthin, β‐carotene, and retinol in aqueous solutions, cream formulations, and on skin was significantly reduced upon the addition of crocin–Na2GA. These findings indicated that crocin–Na2GA possessed remarkable photoprotective properties. Mechanistic studies further revealed that within the stable nano micellar system of crocin–Na2GA, crocin was readily photoactivated and scavenged photoinduced radicals through a self‐sacrificial mechanism, thereby preventing the photodegradation of active constituents during the storage and application phases of creams.

Collectively, these results highlight the potential of crocin–Na2GA as a highly efficient, safe, and cost‐effective photostabilizer, making it a promising candidate for incorporation into cosmetic formulations.