# Evaluation of Saponin-Rich Callus from Saponaria officinalis L. as a Novel Scrub Material with Significant Exfoliating and Anti-Inflammatory Effects

## TL;DR

This study shows that saponin-rich callus from Saponaria officinalis is a safe and effective natural exfoliant with anti-inflammatory properties for cosmetics.

## Contribution

The study introduces saponin-rich callus from Saponaria officinalis as a novel, sustainable exfoliating cosmetic ingredient.

## Key findings

- SCE significantly reduced pro-inflammatory mediators in LPS-stimulated macrophages.
- Clinical tests showed no irritation and a 44.07% reduction in skin desquamation.
- SC and SCE exhibited foaming properties comparable to commercial surfactants.

## Abstract

Saponaria officinalis L., a plant rich in saponins, has long been used as a natural surfactant. It has traditionally been used for its cleansing and anti-inflammatory properties in the treatment of various skin conditions, including eczema, psoriasis, and acne. In this study, we investigated the potential of S. officinalis callus (SC), mass-produced via plant tissue culture, as a novel exfoliating cosmetic ingredient. The callus was induced using Murashige and Skoog (MS) medium supplemented with 1 mg/L 2,4-D, and the resulting extract (SCE) was analyzed via high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), confirming the presence of saponarin—a bioactive compound with known anti-inflammatory properties. In vitro assays demonstrated that SCE significantly suppressed nitric oxide production and reduced the expression of pro-inflammatory mediators, including iNOS, COX-2, TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6, in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophages. The foaming ability and stability of SC and SCE were also comparable to commercial surfactants. Clinical studies further supported the material’s cosmetic potential: a skin patch test in 30 volunteers revealed no signs of irritation (mean score: 0.28), while a desquamation index assessment in 21 participants showed a significant reduction of 44.07%, confirming its exfoliating efficacy. Taken together, these results suggest that the SC scrub is a safe, eco-friendly, and sustainable alternative to synthetic exfoliating agents, offering functional and industrial advantages for cosmetic applications.