Cultural evolution of human beauty standards

TL;DR

This study analyzes 25 years of fashion media to quantify changes in beauty standards, revealing increased diversity but persistent thin ideals and intersectional disparities in representation.

Contribution

It provides the first large-scale, quantitative, intersectional analysis of how beauty standards in media have evolved over time.

Findings

Representation diversity has increased over 25 years.

Median model physique remains stable despite increased diversity.

Regulatory thresholds are more effective at reducing underweight appearances.

Abstract

Beauty standards shape self-perception and health through social comparison and objectification, while exposure to idealized imagery exacerbates body-image concerns. Media and fashion are central arbiters of these ideals, yet long-term, quantitative, intersectional studies on how representation has changed remain scarce. We assembled a dataset of 793199 records spanning 25 years of advertising, magazine covers, runway shows, and editorials to quantify changes in anthropometric and demographic representation. We find a paradox in the evolution of beauty ideals: while representational diversity has increased, the median model physique remains stable. This is driven by selective plus-size inclusion at the upper tail, while the typical physique continues to diverge from the US population. Intersectionally, non-white models are 4.5 times more likely to be plus-size, indicating that progress in size inclusivity falls disproportionately on multiple underrepresented identities. Stratifying the industry via a data-driven prestige hierarchy, we find that thinness is overrepresented at the top tier. Finally, comparing two regulatory interventions we observe that numeric thresholds are more effective at reducing underweight appearances. Our results quantify the cultural evolution in media and fashion, revealing that inclusion has increased; however, gains are uneven and intersectionally concentrated on size and ethnicity, whereas the prevailing thin ideal remains largely unchanged.