Identification of wave breaking from nearshore wave-by-wave records

TL;DR

This study evaluates existing and new wave breaking detection criteria using nearshore wave records, achieving 84-89% accuracy in identifying breaking waves from pressure gauge data.

Contribution

Introduces two novel wave breaking criteria based on wave trough area and crest steepness, enhancing detection accuracy from standard pressure records.

Findings

Detection accuracy between 84% and 89%.

New criteria based on wave trough area and crest steepness.

Validated with field data from a recent campaign.

Abstract

Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are also evaluated. An integral parameter is defined in terms of temporal wave trough area, and a differential parameter is defined in terms of maximum steepness of the crest front period. The criteria tested here are based solely on sea surface elevation derived from standard pressure gauge records. They identify breaking and non-breaking waves with an accuracy between 84% and 89% based on the examined field data.