Parameterization of nearshore wave breaker index

TL;DR

This paper develops a new parameterization of the wave breaker index r based on field data, improving wave height prediction accuracy by 10-24% across various coastal conditions.

Contribution

It introduces a composite r formula considering both wave steepness and depth, with verified performance improvements over existing models.

Findings

New r formula reduces wave height prediction errors by up to 24%.

Higher accuracy achieved in conditions with small offshore wave steepness.

Physical mechanisms explaining r-kh relationships are proposed.

Abstract

The performances of phase-averaged parametric nearshore wave transformation models depend significantly on a reliable estimate of the wave breaker index r (the breaker height-to-depth ratio), a free model parameter that essentially controls the amount of breaking energy dissipation. While the previous studies have suggested separate relationships between r and the offshore wave steepness (s0) or the normalized local water depth (kh), the parameterization of r still requires further investigation considering a wider variety of conditions and a sounder physical basis. In this study, we use the field datasets of wave height and the inverse modelling approach to reveal a composite dependence of r on both s0 and kh. Specifically, the results show a positive dependence of r on kh for larger s0, and a negative dependence of r on kh for smaller s0. Based on such composite relationships, a new r formula is proposed, and its performance is verified against the available datasets of wave height in three coasts and 14 laboratory tests. Implementation of this new formula in a parametric wave model leads to the error reduction of wave height prediction by 10~24% (mean = 19%) relative to seven widely used models in literatures. In particular, a remarkably higher model accuracy is obtained under wave conditions with small offshore wave steepness, which is important for studying onshore sediment transport and beach recovery. Two counteractive physical mechanisms for wave nonlinearity effects, namely the breaking intensification mechanism and the breaking resistance mechanism, are suggested to explain the opposite r-kh relationships within different ranges of s0.