Extreme Wave Runup on a Steep Coastal Profile

TL;DR

This paper demonstrates that steep coastal profiles can cause unexpectedly large wave run-up, combining mathematical modeling with observational data to reveal significant coastal risks even under moderate wave conditions.

Contribution

It introduces a simplified mathematical model and observational analysis showing large wave run-up on steep coastlines, highlighting a previously underappreciated hazard.

Findings

Large wave run-up occurs on steep coasts under moderate conditions.

Mathematical models align with observed wave events.

Steep profiles significantly influence wave impact at the shore.

Abstract

It is shown that very steep coastal profiles can give rise to unexpectedly large wave events at the coast. We combine insight from exact solutions of a simplified mathematical model with photographs from observations at the Norwegian coast near the city of Haugesund. The results suggest that even under moderate wave conditions, very large run-up can occur at the shore.