Experimental and numerical study of the propagation of focused wave groups in the nearshore zone

TL;DR

This study combines experimental and numerical methods to analyze how focused wave groups evolve in the nearshore zone, revealing nonlinear energy transfer and spectral shifts in different water depths.

Contribution

It introduces a combined experimental and numerical approach to investigate wave group propagation, highlighting nonlinear energy transfer and spectral evolution in intermediate water depths.

Findings

Peak frequency remains constant for Pierson-Moskowitz waves.

Downshift of peak frequency observed for JONSWAP waves.

Numerical simulations agree well with experimental results.

Abstract

The propagation of focused wave groups in intermediate water depth and the shoaling zone is experimentally and numerically considered in this paper. The experiments are carried out in a two-dimensional wave flume and wave trains derived from Pierson-Moskowitz and JONSWAP spectrum are generated. The peak frequency does not change during the wave train propagation for Pierson-Moskowitz waves; however, a downshift of this peak is observed for JONSWAP waves. An energy partitioning is performed in order to track the spatial evolution of energy. Four energy regions are defined for each spectrum type. A nonlinear energy transfer between different spectral regions as the wave train propagates is demonstrated and quantified. Numerical simulations are conducted using a modified Boussinesq model for long waves in shallow waters of varying depth. Experimental results are in satisfactory agreement with numerical predictions, especially in the case of wave trains derived from JONSWAP spectrum.