Modeling the Propagation, Breaking and Drift of Ocean Surface Wave

TL;DR

This paper introduces a novel ocean surface wave model that offers new insights into wave speed, breaking criteria, and drift magnitude, enhancing understanding beyond classical models.

Contribution

A new wave model is developed that improves understanding of wave speed, breaking conditions, and drift, differing from classical models by Airy, Stokes, and Gerstner.

Findings

Larger amplitude waves travel faster.

Waves break when front angle exceeds 46.3 degrees.

Wave drift magnitude is less than Stokes drift.

Abstract

A new model other than the classical ones given by Airy, Stokes and Gerstner for the ocean surface wave is constructed. It leads to new understandings for the wave mechanisms: (1) A wave with bigger amplitude or smaller steepness travels faster; (2) The wave breaks when the front angle is bigger than 46.3 degree; (3) The magnitude of the wave drift should be smaller than that of the known Stokes drift.