Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach

TL;DR

This paper experimentally investigates nonlinear wave run-up on beaches, revealing resonant amplification effects at specific frequencies that are crucial for understanding rogue wave formation in coastal zones.

Contribution

It demonstrates the experimental observation of resonant wave amplification and correlates it with numerical predictions, advancing understanding of wave dynamics near shorelines.

Findings

Resonant amplification occurs at specific excitation frequencies.

Maximum amplification correlates with numerical models.

Resonance significantly influences rogue wave formation.

Abstract

Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in the region between the shoreline and wave maker. Frequency and magnitude of the maximum amplification are in good correlation with the numerical calculation results represented in the paper (T.S. Stefanakis et al. PRL (2011)). These effects are very important for understanding the nature of rougue waves in the coastle zone.