Run Up of Surface and Internal Waves

TL;DR

This paper investigates the run-up behavior of surface and internal waves approaching the shore, combining laboratory experiments and field data to analyze breaking mechanisms and energy transfer in the swash-zone.

Contribution

It introduces a comprehensive analysis of surface and internal wave run-up, integrating experimental and field data with a mathematical model including turbulence and dispersion effects.

Findings

Identified common breaking and energy transfer mechanisms for surface and internal waves.

Validated a mathematical model incorporating turbulence and dispersion effects.

Provided insights into wave behavior in the swash-zone through combined experimental and field studies.

Abstract

The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for surface waves ; b) laboratory stratified flow experiments and c) on field data describing the internal wave run up. The presentation is focused on the breaking and energy transfer mechanisms common to surface and internal waves in the swash-zone. The mathematical model taking into account turbulent mixing and dispersion effects is discussed.